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HDR Basics

HDR  (same as HDRI, High Dynamic Range Imaging) is a technique that image editors can implement to expand the depth and range of light in a photo. Flat and dark areas of the image are granted more exposure, while the bright parts, that already exist in the image, are granted more contrast. For example, sites of sunsets that naturally silhouette a foreground can be balanced compositionally, so that the foreground and sunset-sky-background are in harmony. The magical effect can look surreal if brought to the HDR extreme, but it can also be a useful method to subtly tame high-contrast photos. The light in HDR images seems to glow and the shadows dip into black satin.

Pic. 1 (Extreme HDR) by David Morris _______Pic. 2 (Subtle HDR) by Erik Söderström

HDR photographs are generally achieved by capturing multiple standard photographs with any camera that allows manual over-/under-exposures. The next step is to use exposure bracketing, and then merge the range of under- and over-exposed photos into one HDR image. If you do not have a camera with these capabilities do not despair. Photoshop provides various methods to imitate the effect. I’ve briefly outlined a couple of these below:

A) Create a few different digital images from your original and save them separately. Then just merge them together into one. (see blog: “Double Exposures“)

B) Re-work just one image, by selecting it’s light-varying parts and modifying them via “Exposure” and “Saturation”. I’ll walk you through this below:

First, use the “Lasso Tool” and/or “Magic Wand Tool” to trace around and/or select the darkest, least contrasting section of your image. Perhaps it, in part, fades into the light? Well, in that case, utilize your “Define Edge” button (to the upper, left) and decide on your fade range. Once you have that darkest area (or areas) selected you can go to: Layer ->New Adjustment Layer -> Exposure. You’ll want to slightly bring up the 1st level “Exposure”, and slide “Gamma Correction” towards the right to provide depth to your new brightness level. You may also consider color-saturating that selection: (Layer -> New Adjustment Layer -> Saturation). Play with the “Preview” check box (lower, right of adjustment windows) to make sure the selected area’s border doesn’t clash harshly against its neighboring unselected areas.

Second,  use the “Lasso Tool” and/or “Magic Wand Tool” again to grab the brightest and most exposed areas of your image. Use that “Define Edge” button here as well, if needed. Adjust the Exposure levels again. However, bring the Exposure level down, the “Offset” down to just about -0.0010, and slide the Gamma Correction level to the right a bit to again, to add more depth.

Of course, the key to this method is trial by error and just playing around with the various, selected areas. I highly recommend saving each selected area as you go. You will likely want to re-adjust levels in your attempt to provide your pseudo-HDR rendering the best balance possible. (Select ->Save -> name your selection, and to retrieve it: Select -> Load -> drop box with your titled selections)

Example of the pseudo-HDR method "B" described above

Photo by Melanie Marrow

Posted in Photoshop Tips and Tricks.

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Double Exposures

Superimpose: To lay an image (or part of one) on another image.

Double Expose: To merge/blend two images into one.

Creating a “double exposed” image in Photoshop is easier than you might think and can provide you with interesting results. The technique is most commonly used for creating an artistic look. However, it is becoming a popular method for creating a unique ambiance in traditional, straight forward images, when multiple shots of the same image are layered upon each other.

Sky and Water Double Exposed

  1. First, pick out two images you want to merge together and open them both in Photoshop.
  2. Keep the relative image sizes in mind and choose which image will be the “foundation”/bottom layer.
  3. Next, press Ctrl + A (command +A for Mac) to quickly select the entirety of the “top image” you wish to be blended over the “foundation image”.
  4. Copy that selection and paste it right over your “foundation image”. It will look as if the “foundation image” has disappeared and you will be looking at two windows which should each present that “top image”.
  5. Making sure that window in which you just pasted is active, look at your layers in the bottom left corner. Notice that your original image is still there by closing the eye of your latest layer. (Just left click on the eye box.) Before continuing, re-open the eye.
  6. At the top of your layers box, on the right side, you will find the “Opacity” controller. If you slide the control down to 50% you will find your two images equally blended together. You can play with this to determine what looks best in your opinion.
  7. Make sure to “Flatten” at this point, because you will likely need to do some fine tuning work. (Layer – Flatten Image)
  8. I recommend fine tuning with the Burn and Dodge tools, as well as adjusting the Exposure levels. These tools can improve contrast which often gets lost by merging different tones and lighting together.

For examples of this technique and a bit more on the topic, I recommend you check out “Double Exposure Tips and Photos” by Brian Auer.  http://double-exposure-tips-and-photos/

Posted in Photoshop Tips and Tricks.

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